Amuse-Bouches Experimentation

I read an article a few days ago about amuse-bouches, the small introductory tastes offered by the chef before a fine meal, and ever since I have had my mind on them. They are a great way for a chef to express him or herself with a fun little one or two-bite treat. Good amuse-bouches are as much a visual feast as they are an edible one, setting forth the culinary philosophy of the chef while marking the start of the meal. I have never thought to serve an amuse to guests at dinner parties so I decided to experiment. People obsessed with food and eating as a whole whether you call them gourmets, foodies, slow food advocates, what have you, do excessive things in the kitchen from time to time. I admit to baking entire pies, cooking massive meals, and eating far too many snacks in a day when left to my own devices. I love to cook and experiment in the kitchen and occasionally it goes so overboard that I cannot help but laugh at my behavior. For instance today after eating a fantastic Saba filled breakfast my mind wandered to amuse-bouches as a thought popped in my head; risotto cakes. After rummaging through the fridge I had a small pile of ingredients to work with and set about bringing my risotto cake with tomato jam and sun dried tomato vinaigrette amuse to fruition. I rolled little balls of leftover risotto from the night before and fried them in olive oil. After they were crispy with a dark brown crust on both sides I plated them individually with a dollop of tomato jam, something I bought at the farmer’s market, and vinaigrette. For said vinaigrette I pureed sun dried tomatoes with smoked paprika, olive oil, and sherry vinegar. The bright red sauce had a smoky tomato flavor that contrasted with the sweet taste of the jam and the cheesy risotto cake. I know it sounds a little weird to hang out prepping amuse-bouches at home on a Monday afternoon but believe me I got a kick out of it. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Saba And Scramble

It seems I have grown overly attached to poached eggs, shunning other egg incarnations in favor of their delicate texture and perfectly runny yolks. Don’t get me wrong, poached eggs are fantastic and versatile whether on their own or as a garnish to salads, soups, and warm appetizers. Despite my high opinion of poaching it is time move on and reincorporate other methods of cooking eggs into my arsenal. Omelets used to be my go to but they are hard to make for a group of hungry hung-over diners on Sunday morning, making you feel like a short order chef. I then moved on to scrambles, the most basic of techniques, using several ingredients loosely with lots of improvisation to see what flavor combinations would work. My favorite is chorizo, smoked Gouda, and scallion scramble accompanied by wheat toast generously buttered with Kerry Gold Irish butter. Scrumptious. The last of my egg periods prior to my poaching bout was devoted to frittatas or tortillas as they call them in Spain; the thick fluffy egg dishes that look almost like quiches or cakes. They typically serve them in tapas joints with bell peppers, onions, and potatoes involving a combination of sautéing and then broiling to evenly cook the eggs. I made one for Easter lunch as a matter of fact with bacon, bell pepper, and scallions mirroring the Spanish paragon. I closed my poached egg chapter this morning with a scramble, returning to my most trusted method of cooking eggs. I tossed three of my mother’s Red Hen Farm eggs with Greek feta, a minced shallot, and salt & pepper. After the eggs had cooked, just firm and in large curds, I topped them with fines herbs namely tarragon, cilantro, and parsley. The eggs were perfectly cooked and packed with Mediterranean flavor that I gobbled up in two seconds flat with a little toast and a unique preserve.

My good friend Jessica’s mother, a wine maker and distributor extraordinaire, owns and operates Topanga Vineyards in California. Sandy is extremely knowledgeable and boasts a formidable array of wines. She also happens to be a very nice person and a true foodie. Jessica recently gave me a small jar of Saba, a wine byproduct made by Sandy herself. It is a thin jam or conserve with a deep purple color and intense grape flavor. It is not overbearingly sweet and has a light tannin taste with a fruity background of both fresh and dried grapes. It is absolutely delicious on anything from toast and pancakes to roasted pork or cheese boards. Saba is definitely worth checking out though I have no idea about its availability since I was lucky enough to be gifted a jar that I have been eating with shocking speed. Here’s to a tasty breakfast of Saba and scramble. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Rainy Risotto

There is nothing worse than a dreary day being locked indoors waiting out a rainstorm. So instead of chilling in the sunshine at central park or on the tennis court I spent the day lazily in front of the television and computer, rearranging the blog while watching a few ball games. The rain does have one perk; the bad weather motivates me to stay in and cook. This drizzly morning I was craving poached eggs and set right to work on some eggy goodness. After my tasty breakfast of two eggs on English muffins with smoked paprika, I already had my mind on dinner. My mother came into town this afternoon to spend a few days in the city so I wanted to cook something nice for her that we could sit together and eat. The two of us enjoyed a truffle and parsley risotto, green salad, and cheese course. Risottos are super easy to make and are absolutely delicious when cooked right. I began the dish by sautéing some chopped onions and garlic briefly in a pot before adding the rice to toast for a few minutes. I then deglazed the pan with a little dry vermouth, the only alcohol I had on hand, though it did impart a sweet top note. I used homemade vegetable stock flavored with tons of fresh herbs, ramps, and carrots, gradually ladled in as it became absorbed. I finished the risotto with a few healthy squirts of Italian white truffle paste, truffle salt, and a handful of chopped parsley for color and vibrancy.

I have been on a Bibb lettuce kick recently and tonight was no exception. Beets are another one of my current favorites and I eat them regularly whether roasted, boiled, or pickled. Roasted beets have a lovely earthiness that adds character to any dish and I love their color particularly when set against green lettuce leaves. I tossed the leaves and quartered beets with some leftover feta vinaigrette that I made a few nights ago. The salad looked beautiful plated and the cheesy dressing added richness to the crisp greens and roasted beets. It was great to sit and chat with my mother after not seeing her for a few weeks, especially over a couple tasty dishes and cold beers. I guess rainy days can be enjoyable after all. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

The Anthropologist Dines

Last night Valerie and I stayed in for a quiet meal at home. We had a few episodes of Big Love left to catch up on so I made us a little supper before we tucked into the couch. The menu consisted of Boston lettuce salad with feta vinaigrette and carrot soup with cilantro. This delicious soup and salad combo was mighty fine eats if I may say and the creamy dressing of pureed Greek feta, sherry vinegar, and olive oil was out of this world. Besides cooking and feeding others I am fascinated by anything related to agriculture and food provisioning. One of my favorite things to do is peruse the farmer’s market and talk to local participants. In my foyers into food anthropology, my academic passion, the organic movement and farmer’s markets have taken center stage in my research. In the spring of 2007 while living in Santa Cruz, I conducted a short-term ethnographic project among a small group of local farmers at the local Saturday market. Over a twelve-week period I hung out and interviewed farmers in hopes of understanding the multiple meanings of and motivations behind organics. I participated as consumer, casually walking through the market; vendor, packaging produce and talking with customers; and researcher, taking photographs and conducting interviews. During my time I witnessed firsthand the fusion of farming, rebellion, and identity driving organic farmers. At the heart of my research was the dynamic between farmer and consumer coupling food safety with cultural identity established, celebrated, and propagated in the interactive space of the market. Anyway without running the risk of sounding too jargony, it is safe to say that I am a big proponent of organics, sustainability, and high quality fresh food.

In the spirit of sustainability I have recently gotten way into using every bit of foods whether scraps, trimmings, or leftovers. I have been keeping my cooking fats, reusing sauces or unused raw ingredients, and bits of otherwise wasted materials like vegetable stems or peels. There is a bag in my crisper where I toss all my reject pieces of organic matter and produce byproducts from the preparation of meals to make stock with. The bag reached full capacity recently; a mix of carrot peels and tops, herb bottoms of nearly six different types, and tons of ramp greens. I threw everything into a pot with a couple of onions, garlic cloves, and bay leaves, covered it with cold water, and simmered the whole thing for about two hours. I strained the aromatic amber broth and used it in the carrot soup that imparted a lovely onion and herb flavor to the dish; a superbly flavorful substitute to canned stock or water. I recommend making this light and simple yet intensely flavored soup at home for your friends on a cold rainy day or as a starter for a dinner party. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Carrot Soup With Cilantro
Serves 4

1 Small Yellow Onion, chopped
2 Garlic Cloves, minced
8 Large Carrots, cut into 1/2” rounds
2 Cups Vegetable Stock
1 Cup Cilantro
1/2 Cup Olive Oil
1/2 Cup Coconut Milk, plus more for garnish
1 Tsp. Curry Powder
Salt & Pepper

1. Heat a bit of olive oil in a stockpot or Dutch oven over medium high and sauté the onions until translucent. Add the garlic and cook about a minute until fragrant. Add the carrots and cook until just tender, about 8 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a steady simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes until the carrots are tender.
2. While the soup is simmering, throw the cilantro and 1/2 cup of olive oil into a high-speed blender or food processor. Blend until completely emulsified and strain through a fine chinois or cheesecloth. Set the cilantro oil aside.
3. After the soup is done cooking, puree it in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth. Pour into a saucepan over low heat. Add a 1/2 of a cup of coconut milk along with the curry powder, salt, and pepper. Heat through, stirring often.
4. Serve in individual bowls with a swirl of cilantro oil, coconut milk, and a cilantro leaf for garnish. Enjoy.

Friday Sandwich: Tuna Melt

I have been feeling a little under the weather recently. I don’t mean in the sick sense of the word though I have been coughing a bit which leads me irrationally to believe I have contracted swine flu. I mean generally run down due to a lack of sleep and my stubborn allergies. Ever since I frolicked around out of doors as a toddler I have suffered from seasonal allergies; mainly spring when flowers go crazy and pollen runs rampant. Sniffling, sneezing, and itchy eyes are the principal symptoms of this springtime malady which rears its ugly head at the first sign of warm weather. This morning I awoke after a fantastic night’s sleep, hitting the pillow early and rising late. I was feeling a sandwich given I had missed the breakfast window and rummaged around the refrigerator to see what I could throw together. I have been on a sandwich kick since I revisited my early Pomander posts, the first one in particular featuring a warm chicken salad sandwich on wheat. I found a can of tuna in olive oil in the pantry along with a few slices of honey oat bread. Thankfully there are always a ton of fresh herbs in my crisper, one of the guiding flavor components in my cooking. I whisked together some mayonnaise, dill, cilantro, parsley, chopped caper berries, and salt & pepper to make an herbed mayo. I added the flaked tuna, drained well of excess olive oil, to the mayo and spread it on a piece of toasted bread. I broiled the second piece of bread topped with a few slices of aged Comté, the same cheese I used on my chicken sandwich. The resulting dish was both tasty and filling with a generous mound of herbed tuna salad and nutty, salty cheese to compliment the fish. What can I say except sandwiches are great. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!