Le Cru Et Le Cuit

The spontaneous and imaginative aspect of cooking when the knife blade, spoon, or pot becomes an extension of your mind and hand simultaneously is what I love most about cooking. There is also an element of reverence for both the ingredients sacrificed and overall spiritual quality of cooking itself. Levi-Strauss, the mythic French cultural anthropologist, viewed the moment of transformation from raw to cooked as the symbolic act that made us human. “…The categories of the raw and the cooked, the fresh and the decayed, the moistened and the burned – can nonetheless be used as conceptual tools with which to elaborate abstract ideas…” Responsibility, nurturance, and survival are aspects of being human intertwined in the simple yet monumental act of cooking where culture takes over and allows our species to supersede the animal realm. Levi-Strauss’s canonical work was one of the pioneering pieces that got me into the anthropology of food, the academic sub-discipline I have and will continue to work under. Other motivating forces for choosing this particular trajectory, or humoring myself with a blog, is my love of food and passion for cooking. The other day I had a craving to harness one of the most fundamental cultural traits distinguishing me from my animal cousins and cook myself an epic meal.

For some reason I was feeling eggplant parmesan and set about making it using baby eggplants, fresh mozzarella, and a quick tomato sauce. It was out of this world good especially because I had grilled and then baked the eggplant rounds, not frying them breaded, which lightened the whole thing up considerably. In honor of Levi-Strauss and his contributions to the development of food anthropology I made a French bistro standard, poireaux
vinaigrette. The translation is leeks with vinaigrette; a Gallic favorite though any fibrous vegetable can be substituted like asparagus or haricots verts. Just steam the vegetable, which I find makes them moist but not overly soggy without jeopardizing their vibrant color, and top with your favorite mustard-based vinaigrette. This meal could not have been simpler and it was mighty delicious if I do say so myself. Here’s to loving food and for letting your passions guide you. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Tomato Mozzarella

Tomato mozzarella is a combination as legendary as peanut butter and jelly or macaroni and cheese, a perfect match of two relatively basic ingredients that compliment each other wonderfully. I am a big fan of insalata caprese, the textbook Italian appetizer of tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and olive oil. It is truly one of my favorite dishes that I have been eating for as long as I can remember. Both of my parents love tomato mozzarella and make it often whether entertaining company or cooking alone. Late July and August is the ideal time for eating this tasty combo though any tomato that tastes vaguely like a tomato can be substituted for the jewel-like heirlooms of summer. I wanted to contribute a dish to lunch yesterday in addition to a second batch of my Asian slaw so I threw together a slightly unorthodox tomato mozzarella using parsley instead of basil. There was already a platter of caprese at the other end of the table so the parsley variation served to mix things up and bring another flavor to the party. Tomato mozzarella rocks and if there is anybody out there that hasn’t already, I highly recommend running out and rocking this mouthwatering mélange. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Family Feast In Connecticut

I spent this past weekend in Connecticut visiting with my older siblings and the individuals that make up my close posse of extended family. Connecticut has long been a home away from home of sorts coming third after Los Angeles and Paris where I spent the majority of my childhood. Roxbury and its neighboring towns and counties are brimming with early American architecture and lush natural landscape. My brother and sister remain tapped into the local community so it is always a privilege to come to town with them and enjoy the company of their old friends. It was a busy weekend indeed rife with tasty food and lots of drink as we dashed around meeting up with their amazing friends. Saturday night I was in charge of dinner and I welcomed the opportunity to show off my talents in the kitchen. The meal was mainly prepared on the grill as we sat enjoying cold beer and wine in the back garden of the gorgeous property. The first course was a continued experiment in bruschetta, which I have been toying with a lot recently with the abundance of spring and summer produce. This particular incarnation was composed of olive bread, herbed goat cheese, and a blend of caramelized leeks and asparagus. The dish was both inventive and delicious, setting the bar high for the rest of the meal.

The main course was grilled double cut pork chops cooked over an open flame on the charcoal grill which is an indicator of summer fun if there ever was one. I rarely get the chance to grill outside because I live in Manhattan and I really enjoy it when I do. I marinated the chops in a mixture of orange juice, Dijon, olive oil, minced garlic, salt, and black pepper for about three hours in the fridge, turning once to give the flavorful marinade a chance to permeate the meat. My brother and I grilled them after the coals had settled for about 4 minutes a side which ended up being a hair too long as the meat charred up heavily and turned rather dry. After they settled for a few minutes I glazed the chops with a vinaigrette of orange juice, Dijon, and olive oil to carry the flavors of the marinade through.

I served two side dishes along with the grilled pork chops; grilled vegetables and Asian coleslaw. Virtually every time I grill or attend a barbecue function I bring a platter of seasonal vegetables sliced thinly. Grilled vegetables are a usual suspect of Italian antipasti platters accompanied with olive oil and fresh herbs which is exactly how I prepared mine. Long strips of zucchini and yellow squash were tossed in olive oil and sea salt before being grilled for less than a minute per side, just enough time to soften the vegetables and leave grill marks. I covered the finished plate with sea salt and chopped mint to bring a level of freshness to the dish. The second side dish was a variation on coleslaw which is mayonnaise free and packed with flavor. I got the recipe from Alice Waters at Chez Panisse and it is a staple in my barbecue arsenal. Everyone enjoyed the meal tremendously, complimenting the chef repeatedly and gobbling up whatever lay before them with a joyful smile on their faces which was both lovely and endearing. I look forward to many more meals with the super cool people that make up my family network and group of close friends in Connecticut and hope to cook for them again soon. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Asian Slaw
Serves 6






2 C. Savoy Cabbage
2 C. Purple Cabbage
1 C. Carrots, grated
1 Jalapeno, seeded and minced
1/2 C. Cilantro, chopped
Juice of 1 Lime
1/4 C. Sesame Oil
3 Tbs. Soy Sauce
Black/Sichuan Pepper

1. Chop the cabbages into long thin strips with a sharp knife or mandolin and toss them in a large bowl. Add the grated carrots, minced jalapeno, and mix well until all the ingredients are combined.
2. Whisk together the lime juice, sesame oil, soy sauce, and pepper in a small bowl until emulsified. Taste for seasoning and make sure none of the ingredients are overpowering. Add sesame oil above all if the soy sauce is overbearing.
3. Pour the sauce over the slaw and toss well. Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for 25-30 minutes, tossing occasionally, until it has wilted slightly and released some liquid. Serve and enjoy.

Spring Rant & Crab Cakes

Late spring is a fantastic time for foodies who love to cook by the seasons. The summer harvest is a few short weeks away and the markets are beginning to overflow with magnificent seasonal produce. May was garden month which marks planting season though many delicious things are hitting markets now like radishes, rhubarb, spinach, and strawberries. Late spring is great for other goodies like the ubiquitous spring lamb and one of my personal favorites, soft-shell crabs. These tasty little crustaceans are a difficult food to get you used to if you are a finicky or easily spooked eater, eaten whole after molting their hard shell. The blue crab is the soft-shell species primarily eaten in the United States and the Chesapeake Bay shared by Maryland and Virginia boasts the best. I have been eating a lot of the little beauties recently though never at home for some reason. In fact I have never cooked with crab which is as much of a shame as it is alarming. My mother was in town for one night on her way to the airport last Sunday, the perfect opportunity to try my shot at a dish that I crave all to frequently; crab cakes.

Three ingredients form the core of any good crab cake and serve as a springboard to your imagination; crab meat, egg, and breadcrumbs. I totally improvised these particular crab cakes using jumbo lump from Maryland and a combination of fresh breadcrumbs and panko. I threw in some fresh herbs, shallots, mayonnaise, Dijon, and hot sauce to jazz things up a bit and tossed the ingredients together carefully to keep the pieces of crab intact. I browned them under the broiler until golden and crisp, warming their rich centers while melting all the yumminess within. I then drizzled each one with some classic French remoulade; a mayonnaise based dressing that I packed with fresh tarragon. My homemade crab cakes came out well; crisp and delicate with a strong crab flavor and crunchy texture. I served them alongside some blanched asparagus dressed simply with melted butter and lemon juice to round out the meal. My mom was impressed that I had the derring-do to make crab cakes in the first place and commended me on my work, even reaching for seconds which is always a positive sign. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

You Say Risotto, I Say Risotto

Yesterday evening I was feeling mighty peckish and racked my mind and stomach to figure out what I wanted to eat. I try to make risotto a couple times a month because it is easy and affordable as well as delicious. Another plus is that risotto is incredibly versatile; you can literally throw anything you want in there with almost any liquids. Let’s face it, nowadays anyone with a suitable pot and some Italian rice can whip up a tasty risotto. It really is an uncomplicated technique to learn and master. All it takes is constant supervision coupled with a strong arm for the continuous stirring and ladling required. Aside from risotto I was similarly craving cauliflower, the oft-neglected redheaded stepchild of the vegetal realm. I happen to love its slightly bitter, milky, and nutty flavor and will gladly have it raw or cooked. After much internal negotiation in the produce aisle of the gourmet grocer I opted to cook a bacon and cauliflower risotto. The tastes of all three elementary components were superbly represented; the creamy rice just barely cooked through, the content in this case cauliflower florets, and the rich homemade vegetable stock and dry Pinot Grigio that were my liquids. The dish was exquisite, to shed my usual modesty and humble nature, full of contrasting textures and flavors that made every forkful interesting. A bite of smoky bacon here, a smooth hit of cauliflower there, with omnipresent creamy rice running the show. The spiced breadcrumb topping was the icing on the cake which provided a nice crunch and complex spice all their own. As always, I encourage you to enjoy and share delicious food and home cooked meals with yourself and others!

Bacon And Cauliflower Risotto
Serves 4

4 Strips of Bacon
2 Tsp. Olive Oil
1 Yellow Onion, chopped
2 Cloves of Garlic, minced
1 Bay Leaf
1 Large Cauliflower, stalk removed and florets separated
1 C. Carnaroli Rice
1/2 C. White Wine
2 1/2 C. Stock
2 Pieces of Stale Bread
1/4 Tsp. Paprika
1/8 Tsp. Red Chili Flakes
1/4 C. Grated Parmesan
1 Tbs. Ricotta
1 Tbs. Fresh Parsley
Salt & Pepper

1. Render the bacon over medium heat in a large pot or Dutch oven until browned. Set aside. Add a teaspoon of oil and sauté the onions until translucent. Add the minced garlic, bay leaf, and cauliflower florets. Cook for 3-4 minutes then add the rice. Cook the rice, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or so until the kernels brown slightly, shell their outer hull, and crackle in the pot. Bring the stock to a simmer in a separate pot.

2. Add the wine to deglaze and stir it into the rice. Wait for the wine to cook off and be completely absorbed. Ladle in half a cup of stock or so to the rice and wait for it to be absorbed. Add more stock and repeat the process, stirring frequently, until the rice has become tender though slightly firm or al dente.

3. While the risotto is cooking chop the bread into small pieces and pulse it several times in a food processor. Toss the breadcrumbs with a teaspoon of olive oil, paprika, and red chili flakes. Toast them for 4-5 minutes in a skillet over medium heat until they have browned but not burned. Set aside.

4. Crumble the bacon into small bits and add it to the risotto 2 minutes before it as finished cooking along with the parmesan, ricotta, and parsley. Stir in all the ingredients and adjust seasoning. Top with the spiced breadcrumb mixture and serve immediately.